Camp Fashion! what does it mean?

The term camp fashion became popular this year particularly during MET Gala as it was the theme of the 2019 event. At first, I thought it describes camping gear like boots, camouflage clothes, tents and flashlights. But it does not have anything to do with camping or outdoor leisure activity! Yet, before diving into the significance and meaning of camp in fashion, let’s see how Oxford English Dictionary and Wikipedia describe it.

The first English definition of the term appeared in a 1909 edition of the Oxford English Dictionary as “ostentatious, exaggerated, affected, theatrical; effeminate or homosexual; pertaining to, characteristic of, homosexuals…”

According to Wikipedia, “Camp is an aesthetic style and sensibility that regards something as appealing because of its bad taste and ironic value”. “Camp opposes satisfaction and seeks to challenge.” “Camp art is related to—and often confused with—kitsch, and things with camp appeal may also be described as “cheesy”.”

Camp Theme at MET Gala

Now that we’ve established a general definition of the term, let me share the background of camp theme at MET Gala. Late in 2018, MET Gala revealed the theme for the 2019 event which is based on “Camp: Notes on Fashion“. it is an essay written by Susan Sontag in 1964 describing Camp as “love of the unnatural, of artifice & exaggeration.”

Sontag explained “The whole point of Camp is to dethrone the serious”. “Camp is playful, anti-serious. More precisely, Camp involves a new, more complex relation to ‘the serious.’ One can be serious about the frivolous, frivolous about the serious.”

This year’s gala was chaired by fashion icons credited for making camp mainstream fashion. The 3 radicals include Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele, Vogue editor-in-chief Ann Wintour, and Lady Gaga. The 2019 benefit paid homage to Camp and gave celebrity attendees the freedom to experiment with absurdity.

Who is Susan Sontag?

She is an American writer, an incredible contemporary writer and author, described as one of the most influential critics of her generation. Only few days ago, a new biography “Sontag: Her Life by Benjamin Moser” claims that she was the true author of her first husband Philip Rieff’s book Freud: The Mind of the Moralist. Interestingly, this claim reminds me of a recent movie “The Wife”, a story about a female author who lived in the shadow of her famous husband. She was an author who lived in what was a male dominated career.

Why Camp?

Each year, the MET gala committee decides on a theme for the event. This year the committee declared camp as a theme for valid reasons. In recent times, we’ve seen a significant presence of camp in pop culture, fashion, music and even politics. Donald Trump is a camp figure (go figure). It seemed appropriate to advocate this movement or concept. “We are going through an extreme camp moment, and it felt very relevant to the cultural conversation to look at what is often dismissed as empty frivolity but can be actually a very sophisticated and powerful political tool, especially for marginalized cultures,” Costume Institute’s curator Andrew Bolton to the New York Times.

Camp is not a new thing

Interestingly, the concept of Camp dates back to King Louis XIV at Versailles Palace. The word is derived from “se camper” which means to posture boldly. The flamboyant king was also the King of Fashion. As well, he was Mr. big wig, credited for making them a trend during the 17th and 18th centuries.

Camp in the 20th century

Camp appeared quite frequently in modern era. In the early 20s century, during Jazz era, Josephine Baker was considered over the top performer. She was the queen of camp and the inspiration for queer style. Andy Warhol photography and loud designs are camp. The seventies brought a coterie of camp artists like David Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust, Donna Summer Queen of Disco, and Elton John’s baroque wig. In the 80s and 90s, camp dominated the fashion scenes with big shoulder sleeves, teased hair and colorful makeup. Some of our favourite camp queer styles were staples for artists like Cher, Boy George and Madonna. One of the most famous camp incidences was Bjork who wore a white swan dress at the 2000 Oscar’s red carpet.

Camp in culture

I believe camp is rooted in both old and modern cultures. For example, when observing Oriental or African cultural celebrations, camp dominates their costume fashion. It is loud, unapologetic and joyful. There are many examples of exotic festivals with elaborate and over the top costumes translating the richness of a culture. It is no surprise that many fashion designers have embraced camp fashion in recent years. It is a strategy that caters to the rich Oriental culture. And let’s not forget, the strong economic growth and increased wealth of Asia has contributed to the popularization of camp.

Camp exists within societies Although it is often attributed to queer and drag culture. It is a fashion statement that rejects good taste in favor of freedom, color and joy.

Camp today

Camp fashion is becoming a cultural conversation and is very much subjective. We find it today in chunky sneakers, big shades, big jewelry rocks and fake eyelashes. It is everywhere around us and is no longer exceptional. It is inclusive of all genders and cultures. Camp is a melting pot blending old, ostracized and queer styles into one, an embodiment of diversity within a modern world.